Leaving Delhi
Its been awhile since I have written news. I was so glad to leave Delhi and my lice behind. Delhi is a hectic hot city (43degrees); overpopulated, congested, ramshackle and polluted! I have no idea why anyone would want to leave the Indian countryside and live here. I left Delhi on an overnight train, a 12 hour trip because of delays but I had a sleeper berth with crisp white sheets and shared the compartment with 3 polite kind Indian men. The one bought me breakfast (white bread with a potato patti) and chai and gave me his number “should you need anything at all in Dharamsala.” We chatted forever about our children and he told me a little about his relationship and how his wife and mother did not get along and it caused him deep depression. It seems he was mummy’s boy and wanted to continue living at home with mom and with his wife. Which is a traditional Indian style. Imagine James or Jos wife having me hanging around doting on them! He told me that Reiki had finally saved his life! He studied under a reiki Master who became his Guru; he was also a follower of Sri Sri Ravashanka who I had met in Cape town and I had done his pranayama course: ‘Art of Living’ with one of his devotees. I told about my Indian ashram experiences and he was extremely happy and impressed: “I’m ‘inspired’ that I have met you and you have encouraged me to continue my practices”, he eagerly told me and insisted on a photgraph, telling me I had a beautiful smile..
Arriving Dharamshala
I got off at Pothankot and shared a cab with an Israeli couple and a French woman to Dharamshala, 2 hours away. Winding up into the mountains brought me immediate relief and as we climbed the air got cooler and cleaner. Dharamshala is another ramshackle mono colour, mono drab like many other Indian towns that have sprung up without a plan overnight.
McLeod Ganj
As we drove up to Mcleod Ganj I started to see maroon clad bald headed monks walking and talking on the sides of the road. The climb is steep, windy and like all other Indian roads congested with buses, taxis, rickshaws and whatever can move, all hooting for a piece of tar. And of course the cows were back making driving an art and living tenuously once more.
I immediately loved the atmosphere of Mcleod Ganj. It is the residence of the Dalai Lama and the administration center of Tibet in exile. It teems with monks and nuns. 1000monks live near the temple with the Dalai Lama. The good news was that the ‘Dali’ was in town running a teaching programme. I couldn’t attend as it was packed but I was told that I could go and sit in the temple gardens and hear him speak, every now and again catching a glimpse of His Holiness. He is loved and revered and I was grateful that I had been 2 ms from him in Cape Town when I had attended a teaching there after the International Sacred music festival.In McCloed Ganj it was impossible to get close. The HH Kalmapa (a reincarnation of a revered Lama) was also attending the teachings so his presence at his own temple was absent. However I h found out that I could visit him at a public audience after the 28th June. span>
The Tibetans in exile
After three days here I found myself unsure about how I felt about the place. It was scenically beautiful for sure. A town built on mountain ridges 1000 m up overlooking vast green valleys and still below other mountain peaks with snow on top! There are at least 1000 monks staying in the Tsuglagkhang Complex which includes the residence of the Dalai Lama, the temple and the monastery complex.There are many lepers begging on corners, and the streets are packed with stalls and shops and tea houses. The dogs bark all night and the many cows soil whatever place is left to walk.
I became increasingly aware of the plight of the Tibetans. in 2007 there are at least 500 000 Tibetans in exile around the world. Maybe about 5000 or so in upper India, Himachal Pradesh. For me, it was sad to see so many refugees far away from their motherland, aliens in India, trying to keep their culture alive. They have little status and its almost impossible to find jobs without passport and papers. The Dali Lama has set up amazing hospitals and training centres and there is funding for education and housing. There seemed to be a lot of hanging around…by the monks and the teens and old men and women. Many Tibetans have become entrepreneurs and have opened businesses that support the tourist trade selling Tibetan jewelry, ‘thankas’(beautiful Buddha scenes); hand stitched bags and of course Tibetan food. Momos are everywhere. Like dumsum…plain or fried on the corner. There are also Tibetan run guest houses and restaurants. The tea stands are mostly Indian run and a tiny shacks with benches inside where you can sit for a ginger tea, a chai tea and instant coffee. I became more aware now of the western influence on these ancient ‘pure’ cultures. There are many westerners hanging out, drinking, smoking pot on roof tops, demanding cheap prices for everything. For once in my life I was so happy I was not drinking or staying out late. This behaviour was really a bad influence on the young Tibetans and there is a growing alcoholic problem (as in most areas where displaced peoples are). On the other hand the ‘westerners’ also benefit enormously from the Buddhist teachings and meditations, from the art and music lessons offered as well as the atmosphere based on peace and compassion.
I found the Tibetan monks soft gentle and kind. Most Tibetans liked to practice their English so they happily struck up conversations. It was really odd to see coffee shops packed with monks chatting, drinking chai and eating cake (especially western style like carrot or cheese cake!) I suppose I expected much more austere behaviour. The temple was so animated with many discussions and even traditional debating sessions amongst the monks where they shouted and clapped and pointed at each other (as has been done for centuries as a way of practicing their knowledge). Unfortunately all in the Tibetan language which I could not understand.
From various conversations I have discovered that the dalai lama preaches a ‘passivist’ approach towards the Chinese, and he inspires his monks to remain compassionate at all times, even with their enemies. Many young Tibetans however feel more strongly and have staged protests and feel angry towards the Chinese. The dalai Lama tells the world that the sophisticated and compassionate Tibetan community were always in isolation in the past. Now because of the Chinese attempt to wipe out their culture, the whole world now knows about Tibetan Buddhism. He has traveled extensively spreading his peace and love.
The most alarming thing for me is the fact that the ancient Tibetan culture with all its elegance, research, study and exotic rituals (so full of dance, song and skill) no longer exists in its original form. There are no unique, mountain top monasteries where yogis can continue to practice the ‘science of controlling the mind’. There are many secret deep practices that have been passed down by master yogis who perfected the stilling the mind and accessing amazing powers. There are of course still Tibetan yogis here in India, one who has even chosen to stay alive until he is 100 to assist the Dalai lama, but their isolated practices and the devoted support by the entire community seems to be less. The world is losing some of the holiest of men who have achieved the harnessing of the mind for the good of all humanity.
Mcleod Ganj has more sophisticated hotel options than other villages in India, like Chonor House where Richard Greer and the like stay and a peaceful graceful Tibetan institute called Norbulingka 14 kms outside the town. This is named after the original Tibetan ‘summer palace’ of the Dalai Lama in Tibet. Although the dalai has never stayed in this one. It aspires to keep the Tibetan crafts alive and many young Tibetans are trained here in art, carving, woodwork, sewing, stitch work etc. The ‘thankas’ are awesome. Intricate Hand painted icons of religious deities and Buddhist scenes. The process takes days and sometimes months with at least 10 people working on one in its different stages.The paint is hand made from natural dyes. Many of the dyes are derived from natural stones found only in Tibet.They are marketed for the west as orders come from all over the world and the waiting list is long. Id love to order a big one and have it especially made for me. This would be a unique and special piece to own. Such a piece would cost about 18 000 Rps (R3500)The quality here is really high. They also have a guest house set in peaceful gardens and I wanted to go and spend the weekend there.
The other great thing i liked were all the esoteric and cultural courses offered. Ive signed up to learn the Osho meditation techniques, a yoga course, a crystal healing course and an Indian cooking course. I had my astrological chart read in Tibetan tradition and in the Vedic, Indian tradition. I even tried to book on to a course to learn about traditional Tibetan healing herbs! I also booked a Tibetan massage was really excited since I had hardly slept for 4 nights because of dogs and the noisy nightlife of the city!
Monastery dwelling
I decided to stay in a Tibetan Buddhist monastery. It was perched on top of a hill outside the town and involved a good steep walk everyday! The room was extremely sparse and once more had a very thin mattress and the hardest ever. The shared cold shower and long drop loo was a huge disappointment. A cold shower here was not such fun as it was so much cooler and almost cold at night! I layered my bed with all my scarves and 2 camping sheets in the hope of avoiding lice and whatever other bugs that lived in the hills. The temple here comes alive at 530am and I was hoping to be up by then meditating with the monks here. The first thing I did after moving in, was rush back to town and buy a general cleaner and cloth to clean things up a bit in my abode. The first night I hardly slept because of the hard mattress and the constant barking of dogs. This was very common in Mcleod Ganj and the monastery sadly was worse: it had 2 puppies and 3 big mongrels right outside my door sleeping in the passageway. So no morning temple!
The night of the dog!
The second night, I arrived back to my room around 6pm and as I closed the clanging metal door a huge baboon spider loomed into my view on the wall right next to me. I yelled out and then proceeded to try convince it to leave, which only got it agro and more determined to stay. I accepted defeat and settled down to have a little rest with the door open hoping it would politely leave. No ways. I got up wandered back to town (2kms) to give James a call. I left the window above the door wide open as a way out for mr spider. At 11pm he was still there. I rearranged my small room and decided to change beds as the second mattress was further away. There was no one around to ‘save me’ (like Jo ); so I decided to forget the spider and snooze, with my torch really close at hand! I sprinkled lavender oil on my ‘new’ mattress in the hope of warding off any bugs and at least create a better ambience for myself. Sleep at last! But not to be; 2 mongrels outside my door decided to play and then fight over some crinkly packet so much so that they kept thumping into my metal door, ‘thang,thang’, im sure waking up the whole passage of rooms. Yet it seemed only me. I still attempted to stay calm, relax and distance myself from any irritation. Shouting at them would be useless: they lived here. The next minute, in the dark my door flung open ‘swang,thang’; my heart lept through my chest and I sat up still tied into shawls and my camping sheet. Before I could even work out what was going on, half asleep and in the dark, the one big dog jumped up on my tiny pillow (ive been protecting and cleaning constantly) and in no time made himself at home with me still perched and tangled next to him. Yikes! He smelt. I said ‘no’ and pushed, he snapped; I still pushed hard at his rear and he growled and snapped again. The last thing I wanted (after a horse kick , a buck by a cow, lice infestation and imagined spider bite) was a dog bite too. I managed to work my way to standing in the dark with the dog curled up and already fast asleep on my pillow and lavender sheets! I switched all the lights on, couldn’t find mr spider but decided to pull the mongrel off by pulling at my sheets and pillow. I managed to retrieve my bedding but he just, like the spider, stuck fast to his position; he curled up tighter, tucked his nose to the bed and went to sleep in an instance, which was followed by a loud ‘fart’and a shocking smell! Animals, the monastery and the beds were not working for me…never mind the sleep! So here I am typing, perched on my original bed, door open in the hope the dog will leave. How to sleep? Its 130am! I have a Tibetan DVD I may watch, munch my almonds as comfort food…. but temple rituals at 5am…maybe not!
What to do?
As for me, i was feeling displaced! There was a yoga course I could have started the next day and for some reason I became despondent. I decided to go along anyways. I also tentatively booked for a traditional Indian cooking course!!!! I really didn’t like the tibetian food. Its clean but really tasteless with lots of broths. Nothing like the thick sauces and dahl of the Indian food. I missed the Indian atmosphere and the peace of the ashrams! I thought, if it doesn’t improve here I might wander back down to Richikesh……
Blessings from Dalai! And my Voluteer work…..
The best news: firstly, I took 20 Malas to the Dalai Lama to be blessed. These are prayer necklaces that I wanted to hand out to Tibetans on the Kialash pilgrimage. For Those who miss the Dali lama and his presence and guidance. I also bought mandala neck pieces for friends and had them blessed too.
Secondly: I volunteered to teach English at the Lha Volunteer centre. I taught everyday from 3 to 4pm. Mostly monks and of course local peoples. I so looked forward to my classes. I was pleased to help and also to meet and speak to the locals.
I still needed to find out about my Vipassana, the 10 day silent retreat up on one of the mountains in Bangsu outside Mcleod Ganj. I hoped I was still booked on it for the 1st June.
NOT displaced any more!!!
A miracle in India style.
I spent all of Thursday searching for new accommodation and checking out different areas. This entails walking up and down hills continuously and I was really tired. Once more my dissatisfaction lead me to an ‘upper class’ place, no not 5 star but a place where westerners with money would stay!! I even went so far as booking 3 nights! Nothing wrong?? Yes there is, the main purpose of my whole trip is to immerse myself in the culture and devotional practices. Staying here would ease me back into the familiar western ways. I of course once more surrendered and said a prayer with a vague knowing at the back of my mind. As divine guidance has it…I walked into a couple I met at Phool Chatti. A Chilean couple who are strong believers, quiet , warm and devote time to yoga and meditation. They told me that they had found a house in nature, on the mountain in Bangsu (quieter section), with kitchen stunning view and only 2 rooms. They volunteered the info that the lady that was meant to be sharing with them didn’t pitch. I immediately said that I would take it. They were really pleased, as we knew each other already. So here I am in my own little house, with wooden floors, surrounded by the locals and of course hippy westerners AND a small intimate yoga and meditation class next door (right next door). This is what continually happens to me in India, almost always at the last minute though. It is really supporting and helps my faith and peace of mind. it is a practice called ‘Sannyasa’ by the uddhists. Complete Surrender to what ‘is’. This is also the word for a monk a person who has surrendered and aims to abandon all her delusions, all the ‘maya’. many of the words in Buddhism and Hinduism are similar because Buddha studied the Vedas which are in sanskrit.Buddhism came to Tibet in the 7th Century, prior to that were the Bon beliefs dating from 600 BC approx. This is why Tibetan culture still incorporates some shamanistic practices.
Settling in although climbing nearly 1000m everyday!!
Sunday 27th may.
The Chilean couple were adorable. She sung opera for an hour a day (thats her profession); and he woke at 530am to do Tai chi on the roof overlooking the valley. They were so loving it was a treat and they took care in cooking their own food daily. (of course i didn’t). We had a kitchen and a shared bathroom , huge open concrete ‘deck’ and the house overlooked the whole valley. If you think ‘luxury’ think again! But it felt like home. I scrubbed my foor the day I moved in and the walls…yes walls…my bedroom walls were coated with light grime…how on earth? anyways, got all the blankets cover laundered too by the kind local neighbour. I burnt stacks of incense…so all was good. The walk to the house was a climb. From Mcleod Ganj I ascended almost 1000 metres. I was in training for my Tibetan pilgrimage in July which was good. I begun researching Mount Kailash and its significance because the bookstalls here are packed with Tibetan info and Buddhist philosophy. One could read for years and not be done here! My excitement for the trek grew.The Kora around the sacred mountain, the alledged abode of Demchok, the Buddha of great bliss and the abode of Shiva, the great destroyer God of the Hindus called me.
I have finally sent off a package to carolyn of pashminas. Be warned…i reasearched colours, size, style, cost in about 10 shops. and I still managed to get ripped off. I paid full price of 3000 Rps fpr double pure pashmina; and now im told they are single and mixed!!!what some say is pashmina is either goat,yak or rabbit. Many of the expensive pure pasminas at 1200 rps: are mixed with wool. than theres chinese and nepali pashmina…some hand woven some machine!!! anyways, Ive bought for everyone…soft and warm…ive sent to SA and US. The owner of each one will have to judge! Now my shopping is over.
The Osho meditation morning
So i completed my Osho course with a bunch of Europeans in their 20’s. In fact the whole of Bangsu is packed with early 20’s on gap years from all over. They were really sincere and warm people and we jumped and shouted and sighed and sat. I jumped making noises to release negative pent up emotion, than i hopped, than i danced. all to fabulous eastern music, satars, flutes etc. Finally when we got to the quiet meditation i was so tired I just feel asleep!oops. than we did sufi ‘whirling’ which is also a Osho technique from Pune his headquarters. The whirling was great…as you turn for about 10 mins the room seemingly starts to spin on its own. if you keep calm and focus on the inner core (which is the purpose) you can keep going! its symbolic of the world rushing by, yet somehow our core is always still. Its a reminder to go in. Once more telling us that happiness outside is temperorary and cannot be depended on. “turn inwards.truth is in the Knowing of oneself” a sadhu
I am yet to get to the Library of Tibetan Works and Archives, a large institution set up by Dalai Lama to preserve intellectual works and ancient texts. There are 80 000 manuscripts, some dating back to 10th century
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